Springtime Air Conditioner Clean-Up

Spring Air Conditioner Clean-Up

 Hello everyone, and welcome to the house help podcast.  Before we begin today's show, I want to thank everyone who's listening and sending questions and comments.   By the way, if you happen to be an iTunes user, and you like our program, please leave us feedback.   Okay, now let's dive in to today's topic:  Air Conditioners

 

Summer is fast approaching, and now's the perfect time to check on your air conditioner.  A check up will improve your air conditioning unit's efficiency and potential prevent expensive unexpected repairs during the heat of the summer.  I've heard that more than half of all air conditioners that fail do so because they weren't cleaned and maintained properly.  Ouch!  I used to be afraid to perform this type of maintenance.  But I've learned that if I follow the directions slowly, allow plenty of time to complete the task, and gather all my materials before I get started the job is really pretty easy.

 

Here's what you'll need for this project:

• A vacuum cleaner with soft brush attachment

• New air filter 

• Putty knife
• Screwdriver
• Level if you have one, otherwise use a marked measuring cup filled with water
• Paper clip
• Gloves
• Face mask
• Spray lubricant
• Owner's manual to your unit, if available

If this is the first time you've ever cleaned an air conditioning unit, you should allow several hours for the task.  Work carefully and don't rush.  If any of the steps seems too difficult, schedule a checkup with an HVAC professional.  This type of visit costs around $200 on the average.  Also note that the outside air temperature should be higher than 60 degrees or the compressors won't work properly and things will become much more complicated.

 

Before we dive in, let's review the basic parts of a central air conditioner.  There are two main sections: an outdoor unit (known as the compressor or condenser) which is the equipment that sits next to your home, and an indoor unit (known as the evaporator) which can be found in a central duct near your furnace. If your home has a heat pump instead of a furnace, the indoor unit will be in the air handler. Use the same maintenance steps we show here, the basic parts will be the same.  Refer to the equipment owner's manual for specifics on your unit.  The Refrigerant, also known as Freon, in the copper tubes absorbs heat at the evaporator coil inside, cools indoor air and then releases heat at the condenser coil outdoors.  The unit doesn't consume any Freon or refrigerant, so if the level is low you likely have a leak that will need to be fixed by a professional.

 

Now let's get started!

First, we're going to clean the outdoor Unit.  Two copper tubes connect the outdoor compressor and its condenser coil to the indoor evaporator coil that's located above the furnace blower (the coil is a combination of fins and tubes). One tube is covered with foam insulation. If you have a heat pump, both tubes will be insulated.

 

Our main focus outside is to clean the condenser coil. The fan inside the condenser coil sucks air through the fins, and as a result, pulls dirt and debris with it.   You're likely to find dust, leaves, grass clippings, dead bugs and lots of other whatnots in here that block airflow and reduce the unit's efficiency.

 

1. Begin by shutting off the electrical power at the appliance shutoff box. It's usually outside within sight of the outdoor unit. Some shutoffs simply pull out; others have a handle to pull down or a fuse to remove. If there isn't one, turn off the power at the circuit breaker at the main panel that controls the outdoor unit.
2. Now vacuum the condenser fins using a soft-bristle brush attachment. Avoid bending the fins. If damaged, they may block the flow of air, stress your unit and cause the air-conditioner to whistle. To straighten bent fins, insert a putty knife between them and pry gently.  Clear away weeds, grass and other debris that block airflow through the coil.  To maximize cooling, the outdoor part of an air conditioner should be shaded from the sun. Trees, shrubs or an awning can provide the shade, but they must be far enough away to allow warm air to escape. Trim greenery at least three feet away from the unit.
3. Now, unscrew the top grille and open. You may need to use your lubricating spray if the screws don't loosen easily or if you don't have WD40 just use a non-stick baking spray.  The fan and wires will come with it when you open, so support it carefully to avoid stretching the electrical wires and stressing the connections. If the fan doesn't lift out when you take the top off of your unit, take care to avoid hitting it with a direct spray of water when you clean the fins. 
4. Grab your water hose and spray the fins from the inside outward to clear dirt, grass and debris.  Look for signs of nests (from mice, wasps or other pests) and remove.
5. Screw the top back on.
6. Turn the power back on.
7. Go inside and adjust the thermostat so the outdoor unit kicks on.
8. Listen for any strange noises that might indicate damage or wear. Wait 10 minutes.
9. Pull back the insulation on the insulated pipe. It should feel cool, about 60 degrees. The other pipe should feel warm, about skin temperature. If either doesn't feel right, it's time to call a professional to check the refrigerant level. 

 

** Here's a tip for next fall:  rather than wrapping your outdoor unit with plastic and completely blocking the air flow, cover your unit in winter with a piece of plywood held down by a brick or two. Wrapping your unity with plastic or any other material that completely blocks airflow will trap moisture inside and promote corrosion.**

 

10. Now let's head inside and adjust the thermostat so the outdoor unit will turn off.
11. Make sure your furnace is off, then check the filter to see if it needs to be changed.  We're turning the furnace off to keep dust from collecting on the evaporator coil fins.  I recommend changing your filter at least once a month.  In my home, we use the inexpensive filters and change them more often.  This ensures we have clean air without stressing our unit.  Some of the filters on the market these days are so thick and condensed that your system has to work harder to pull the air through, causing unnecessary wear and tear.  **if you have a washable filter, cleaning it is simple - brush the filter free of lint, then wash it in warm soapy water.  Allow to air dry completely then reinstall.
12. Back to work - time to open the blower compartment .  **firstmake sure the power is turned off.**
13. Inside this compartment we need to vacuum up any dust that has collected in the compartment. 
14. Next we'll check the condensation drain for mold and mildew. Is there a musty smell?  If so you may have bacteria growing.  If you need to clean this drain, mix  a bleach solution (1 part bleach to 16 parts water) through pour the vent at the top of the tube using a funnel.  
15. I don't recommend attempting to lubricate motors or any other electrical parts yourself.  Have an HVAC professional do this for you when they service your furnace in the fall. 

Like any major appliance in your home, your cooling system should be checked and cleaned periodically by a professional, see your owner's manual for the recommended frequency of this care.  

 

That's all for today's show. You'll find a transcript of this podcast at http://freehousehelp.libsyn.com.  That's freehousehelp dot l-i-b-s-y-n dot com. Remember, if you an idea or a question, email [e-mail].